Light
If your plant is receiving adequate water and food (the plant looks lush and healthy, leaves are a nice dark green) but does not flower or only produces a few flowers, then chances are it is not getting enough light. You should try to gradually increase the amount of light your plant is receiving (leaves should be a medium-green).

For simplicity sake, light requirements can be divided into four levels:

• low light (90% shade or less)
• medium light (55-65% shade)
• high light (30-40% shade)
• full sun (no shade)

When we refer to “% shade,” we are referring to a percentage of the available daylight at any given point in time of the day, not the amount of daytime that the plant is exposed to the full sun. Indeed, most orchids would burn within a matter of minutes if put in the full sun during hot summers.
 
Don't Forget Night
Some Cattleyas initiate spikes in response to the longer, uninterrupted nights of winter. Therefore, all else being equal, they will only flower when they receive the adequate amount of night hours (although this can vary significantly between Cattleya species).

Temperature
Temperature plays an important role in flowering. Most standard Phalaenopsis for example, require cooler nights and days (60-75 °F) to initiate spikes. These cooler temps not only initiate the Phalaenopsis spike, but can also influence the number of flowers produced on that spike. This is why in our area of the south Phalaenopsis plants bloom primarily from winter to spring. This may differ if you are located in the north. On the other hand, many Dendrobiums like it hot, so they will typically flower from mid-summer to fall.

Orchid needs change with the seasons just like any other plant. While many orchids are dormant during the winter, they still need light, water, regular feedings and just the right temperatures. So, we've assembled some grow tips to help you care for your orchids during the colder, dryer winter months. 

Temperature 
Many commonly grown orchids are from temperate, tropical regions, so it's important to keep a close eye on the temperatures. Most orchids prefer daytime temps between 70° and 90° F and nighttime temps between 55° and 75° F (similar to most people).  For those of you that grow your orchids outdoors, you will need to relocate your plants indoors or to an insulated garage when the forecast calls for temperature drops below 55° F. Amateur greenhouse growers may want to consider investing in a space heater that is specifically designed for greenhouse use. 

Watering 
We recommend that you water your orchids less frequently during the winter season. Water your plants early in the morning after the sun has risen to allow excess moisture to evaporate during the day. Watering at night can increase the chances of fungal or bacterial infections which are more common during the winter. Additionally, you will want to allow your plants to dry out between waterings. The exception to this recommendation is when caring for Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum (Lady Slipper) orchids. These should be kept consistently moist even during the winter months. 

Light
Ensuring the right amount of light can be more difficult during the winter months with shorter days and less daylight.  Orchids often need 12 to 14 hours of indirect light, depending on the variety. You may need to relocate your orchid throughout the day to follow the sunlight. Usually, a north- or east-facing window is best, but be sure  the window has some type of covering like a sheer curtain to avoid direct sunlight on your plants.

For those of you that live in snowy locations, don't forget that sunlight can reflect off the snowy ground to cause even more sunlight through your windows. In addition to checking for cold drafts, check the amount of direct sunlight coming in through your windows throughout the day to avoid "sun-burning" your plants. Plants need plenty of light during the winter, you just want to make sure they don't burn.

If you live in a part of the country where the sun doesn’t rise until 8:00 a.m. and sets as early as 4:00 p.m. during the winter months, an indoor grow light can help you ensure that your orchids are receiving the proper amount of light. 

Plant Food
Although your orchid may not be growing as quickly as it does during the spring and summer months, it is very important to keep feeding your plants during their dormancy. We recommend diluting your plant food, but don't omit feeding entirely.

For more on information on how to care for orchids, visit easyorchidgrowing.com. 

​Happy Blooming!

Looking Like an Orchid
The orchid mantis is a species of praying mantis that models itself after a flower, specifically a pink orchid. Its scientific name is Hymenopus coronatus.

The mantis is white with pink accents, which vary from soft to bright, and its legs have lobes that make them look like the petals of an orchid. Its size is even about that or an orchid flower, with females growing to be about 2.5 inches, and adult males measuring about 1 inch. Most impressive, the mantis can vary its color with certain environmental conditions, namely changes in light or temperature, so that it resembles not just an orchid in general but the specific orchids that it’s living near.

Living Like an Orchid
The orchid mantis doesn’t just look like an orchid, but, in many ways, it also lives like one. The insect is native to Malaysia, where plenty of orchid species (including pink ones) come from. In Malaysia, the mantis is found in bushes and on trees -- the same places where epiphytic orchids grow. (Epiphytes are plants that grow harmlessly on other plants.)

The mantis even likes the same weather as orchids, preferring daytime temperatures between 77 and 95° F, and needing nighttime temperatures to be at least 64° F. It also requires high humidity levels, ideally a relative humidity between 60 and 70 percent.

Staying Safe While Hunting Insects
By resembling an orchid and living in the same places where an orchid would, the orchid mantis is able to hide from predators and hunt its prey. Birds will overlook the sizeable insect, mistaking it for a flower. Smaller insects will too, coming too close to the predator. The mantis will eat small butterflies, hoverflies, houseflies, crickets and other, similar insects, which are all attracted to the pink orchid the mantis resembles.
​
Learning about orchids is a never-ending pursuit, and the field of study isn’t limited to the flowers themselves. To learn more about orchids, their relationships with insects and orchid care, visit EasyOrchidGrowing.com. Happy Blooming!

Dishwashing Liquid 
A mild dishwashing detergent can serve as an effective treatment for aphids and other pests. Simply mix 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent with a half gallon of water. Pour into a clean spray bottle. Generously spray the leaves and exposed orchid roots, taking extra care to spray the underside of each leaf where pests hide. Wait a few hours and spray again with fresh water to remove the soap and the pests.

Cinnamon
This common spice has several beneficial properties for your orchids. There are times when you need to cut away fungus or bacteria from the leaves of your plants. Sprinkle ground cinnamon directly on the leaves where you made a clean cut to help heal the wound. You can also steep cinnamon sticks in hot water over night to make a mild fungicide. Use the “cinnamon tea” in a spray bottle to treat mild fungus issues. This simple treatment can also reduce fungi growth among your orchids such as mushrooms. 

Bananas
Don’t toss your banana peels; put them to work. Banana peels contain many important nutrients including potassium. You can make a natural fertilizer spray for your orchids by soaking leftover peels in water for a couple of days. Discard the peel and use the “banana water” in a spray bottle to feed your orchids. If you have orchids mounted to trees, you can hang the peel around your orchids for gradual fertilization over time. Your orchids will absorb nutrients from the banana as it deteriorates.   

Mouthwash
Mouthwash fights bacteria in your mouth, and it can do the same with your orchids. Spritz your orchid weekly with a dose of mouthwash to deter pests and bacteria. Avoid flavored mouthwashes because they contain additives. 

Most gardeners with a green thumb have a few proven home remedies that truly work. There are countless tricks-of-the-trade, but here are a few things around the house that we know can help with your orchid collection.

Epsom Salts
Epsom Salts aren’t just for soaking in the tub. Epsom Salts contain magnesium which is an essential element in orchid nutrition. One teaspoon of Epsom Salts added to one gallon of water is all you need to incorporate into your watering routine. This extra boost can help remove the reddish-purple color from cattleya leaves and kick start flower bud formation in most orchid varities.

Rubbing Alcohol
Many times you don’t need complex chemicals to rid your orchids of pesky pests. Simply soak a cotton ball with 70% isopropyl alcohol and wipe away scale, mealybugs, aphids and mites. The alcohol destroys an insect’s outer waxy covering, which will kill these bugs essentially on contact. 

Beer
If you struggle with slugs, trying buying them a beer. Place shallow containers filled with beer around your plants. Slugs will be drawn to the yeast in the beer and drown in the container. 

How Often Should You Divide?
Most orchid medium starts to deteriorate within two to three years. Refreshing the potting medium is important for the plant to absorb fresh nutrients and avoid root rot, fungus or bacteria. Depending on the orchid variety, most plants will be ready for splitting or a larger pot within two to three years of active growth.

There are two recommended times to divide your orchids:

• following an active flowering season
• when new roots and pseudo bulbs begin to form

It is not recommended to divide your plants when new spikes and/or blooms are forming. The disruption could result in dropped buds or stunted growth.

As orchids have increased in popularity, so too has their availability at traditional nurseries, home improvement stores and grocery stores. So with more choices available, how do you know that you are selecting a healthy plant? 

Whether you are just looking for an arrangement that will last longer than traditional cut flowers, or you plan to nurture the plant for years of enjoyment, it’s important to take a few extra minutes to pick the right plant.

Orchids provide the perfect environment for pests to live and thrive. Warm, humid air; plump, soft leaves; tender buds and blossoms; and plenty of crevices to hide under leaves and in potting media. If you aren't careful, a small bug infestation can quickly grow into a big and costly problem. Below are some photos and descriptions to help you identify what may be harming your plants as well some suggestions on how to get rid of pesky pests.

Scale
Scale are piercing, sucking insects that are difficult to control as the reproducing females are covered by a protective shell that also protects the pest's eggs. Scale is often resistant to many pesticides due to their hard outer shell.  

​Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that are generally pear-shaped and green or black in color. They reproduce rapidly and are most often seen on flower buds/spikes and new growth. They produce a sticky substance referred to as honeydew which can encourage the growth of a black fungus (sooty mold). If the leaves of your plants exhibit sooty mold, it's likely that you have an aphid infestation. 

Mealybugs
Sometimes confused with scale, mealybugs are a soft-bodied insect that are readily identified at the mature stage as white to greyish-white and cotton-like. They are often found in the same areas as scale and can do substantial damage if not dealt with immediately.

Thrips
​These are very small, elongated insects that are most prevalent on flowers and buds. Often times, their presence is not recognized until the damage from their feeding is obvious. These bugs suck the juice right out of your plants which can cause the deformation of buds, flowers, and new growth. You may also notice browning around the edges of your flowers. 

​Removal
To get rid of thrips, you will need to use a pesticide. Your plants should be inspected weekly, and the pesticide should be reapplied until the infestation has disappeared completely. 

​Mites
Mites are microscopic arthropods that are related to ticks. They attack the undersides of leaves. Their presence is often unnoticed until it's too late. They leave behind silvery, pitted, unsightly leaves. 

​Removal
It is important to note that mites are not insects. Most insecticides are not effective at killing mites. You must purchase a pesticide that is specifically labeled as a miticide for use against this pest. For small infestations in the home, wiping the infested areas with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol can also be effective.   

​Grasshoppers
Grasshoppers, especially Lubbers, can do significant damage to orchids in a very short period of time. Lubbers are usually 1” to 3” long and can vary in color from yellow to black depending on the species and stage of growth.

Removal
These are best controlled immediately by hand or pruners. 

​Orchids Deserve Treats, Too
Although the growing season is winding down as we head into fall, that doesn’t mean you should stop feeding your orchids. Routine, year-round feeding promotes healthy growth, bigger blooms and happier plants.

So how should you “treat” your orchids? There are several ways to go about feeding your plants and selecting one method over another really depends on how much time you have to spend with your orchids. 

​Weakly Weekly
The weakly, weekly method is probably the most common method for gardeners who have multiple plants and time to fertilize. This approach is typically performed with a water soluble or liquid plant food whereby you reduce the concentration of the fertilizer by diluting it with additional water. With our Better-Gro® Orchid Plus plant food, we recommend one teaspoon per gallon of water when feeding with the weakly, weekly method.

​First and Third Friday Feedings
Other growers prefer the less time-consuming method for providing plant food by picking a particular day to fertilize. One way to remember this may be to always feed on the first and third Friday of the month. Place a reminder on your calendar and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing your plant food. When usingBetter-Gro® Orchid Plus®, twice monthly, we recommend mixing a half of a tablespoon of plant food per gallon of water.

​Continuous Release
If you are always on the go and have limited time, don’t worry. You don’t have to deprive your plants. We suggest a continuous release formula like our Better-Gro® Houseplant, Bromeliad & Orchid Food because it that will feed your plants with one application for up to 12 months. Specially-formulated pellets release nutrients over time, so you don’t have to worry about over- or under-feeding your plants.

​Extra Treat for You and Your Plants
If you really want to treat your plants and treat yourself to bigger, better blooms, try including Better-Gro® Orchid Better-Bloom® into your feeding routine. This plant food formula includes a high content phosphorous that serves as a powerful blooming agent. Your plants will produce more blooms, deeper colors and larger blossoms. We recommend giving your plants Better-Bloom every fourth watering.

Don’t forget your orchids this Halloween. They like “treats” too! Boo-Yah!

Happy Blooming and Happy Halloween from Better-Gro!

​Tip #1 
To Center or Not to Center?
Knowing if your plant is monopodial or sympodial will help you determine where to place your plant in the new pot. Monopodials such as Phalaenopsis and Vandas grow upwards from the center of the plant whereas sympodial plants like Cattleyas, Oncidiums and Dendrobiums grow sideways. Plant your mono plants in the middle of your pot. For sympodials, determine the direction of your plant’s new growth and place the old growth at the back edge of your pot. This simple trick will prevent tipsy, one-sided plants and will allow your plant to grow bigger and fuller before you repot again.

​Tip #2 
A Good Soaking 
Repotting can be stressful for your plants, so give them a boost with a good soak. If your plant is in healthy condition, mix a small amount of plant foodwith water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Soak your bare-rooted orchid in this solution for approximately 15 minutes before you repot to help generate new root growth.

If your orchid is sickly, you may want to try soaking your bare-rooted plant in a fungicide before repotting. This extra step will help give your sick plant a chance at survival.

If you are repotting multiple plants, use fresh soaking baths between plants to avoid possible cross-contamination. 

Orchids can be attached to trees using a variety of different methods. 
Option 1: Simply attach the orchid to a tree limb and secure with biodegradable twine. You may want to wrap the root ball in sphagnum moss to initially keep the roots from drying out.

Option 2: Create a burlap pocket filled with your orchid plant and Better-Gro® potting mix. Attach the pocket to the tree with twine.

​Over time, the twine and burlap will degrade, however, your orchid will have grown roots into and around the tree bark. Orchids attach best to trees with textured bark rather than smooth surfaces like certain palm species.  

The best time of year to mount orchids to trees is (1) when your orchid is heading into the growing season (2) during the wet time of year, typically the summer.   With minimal effort, expense and care, your orchids will quickly adapt to their new surroundings. You will be rewarded with fresh blooms and a new look in your yard. 

​A few months back, we talked about orchid leaves turning purple which can commonly occur during the winter. Now that we are in the final weeks of summer with plenty of heat still lingering, let’s talk about yellow leaves. 

There are a number of reasons why orchid leaves turn yellow, some of which should cause concern while others are just part of your plant’s natural life cycle.

​Repotting Stress
If you have recently repotted an otherwise healthy plant, yellowing leaves may be a sign of stress. It is completely natural for a repotted orchid to shed leaves. The first stage of this shedding process will be the yellowing of select leaves. There is nothing to worry about if the rest of the plant looks strong.

​Too Much Sun
If you grow your orchid outside, summer is the time when you need to take extra care to ensure that your plants aren’t getting burned. If the pseudobulbs and roots of your plant look healthy, but the you notice yellowing leaves, it’s likely that your orchids are simply getting too much sun. “Sunburn” will start on the highest point of the leaf. Leaves will turn from a nice healthy looking green to a lime-ish green then to yellow. If nothing is done to protect your plant, you will eventually find unsightly, round, papery spots that will permanently scar your plant.

​Too Little Water or Too Much Water
If your leaves are beginning to turn yellow and are also floppy, wrinkled and/or leathery it is likely that your plant needs more water. Water your plant thoroughly and allow the water to completely drain.

On the flipside, overwatering can cause your plant to yellow. If your leaves look droopy, sickly and even slimy, you may be watering too much. Overwatering can kill a plant literally from the roots up. The roots of an overwatered plant will turn black and begin to rot before your leaves alert you that there is a problem. If you think you have overwatered your orchid, place your plant in a well ventilated location to allow more air flow to stave off bacterial or fungal infections. Wait until the potting media has dried out, then begin watering your plant again with less frequency than before.

Natural Life Cycle
If the lowest leaves of your otherwise healthy looking Phalaenopsis plant begin to yellow, don’t worry and do nothing. Your orchid is just going through a normal growth cycle to shed older leaves. We recommend that you avoid the temptation to cut the yellow leaf. Doing so could introduce fungus through the open cut wound. Your plant will seal the cut area if you allow the leaf to naturally die and fall off. ​

​Bacteria, Fungus and Viruses
Yellow leaves can often be a sign of a bacterial, fungal or viral infection. Check the underside of your leaves as well as your roots for signs of infection and treat with a Bactercide, Fungicide, or Virucide. Use as directed by the manufacturer.

​We love ferns but don't let them get mixed up with your orchids. Ferns are orchid foes not friends!

This may sound counterintuitive in that ferns and orchids are both epiphytes. So, by definition, they derive their nutrition from air, rain and their surroundings. Neither harm their host plant, but when grown side-by-side, ferns and orchids can act like young siblings fighting for attention. If you want your orchids to thrive, it’s best to remove the foe before it can do any damage.

These simple steps will help ensure that your collection remains an orchid collection rather than a fern collection.

Happy Blooming from Better-Gro!

We’re often asked: (1) How do I know when to repot my orchid and (2) What is the best time to repot my orchid. Whether you are a first-time orchid owner or a long-time collector, follow these simple suggestions for repotting success. ​

After you've stocked up on hurricane supplies and prepped your home in advance of a storm, you will likely want to turn your attention to your orchids and other plants if there is time. After all, some collectors have invested a significant amount of time and money into their orchid collections.

Pre-Hurricane Preparation
Tips for Your Orchids

Relocate and Secure Your Pots

• If you have the ability to move your pots into your home or garage before the storm, do it! Pots can serve as dangerous missiles in high winds that can break through windows and cause extensive damage. 
• If your collection is too large to relocate, evaluate your greenhouse to look for the safest place to secure your plants. This could mean grouping your plants under your grow benches. Anything you can do to limit wind exposure is best.
• If you have any plants in bloom, bring them indoors. Delicate flowers can easily bruise or break with even the smallest wind storm.
• If you live near the coast, be sure your plants are not located where they could be impacted by storm surge. Saltwater can be deadly to your plants.
• Secure your plant tags. It's so easy to lose plant tags when relocating your plants, so do your best to tuck those tags into the sides of your pots.

Prepare for Excess Sun Exposure

• Stock up on shade cloth. If you lose your greenhouse or the surrounding trees that provide shade to your orchids, you will need to cover your plants as soon as the storm has passed. Orchids burn very easily with direct sun exposure, so you will want to prevent this from happening. 
• If you moved your orchids indoors, be sure that they are not receiving direct sunlight from nearby windows. The glass in your windows intensify the sun's rays. 

Prepare for Post-Storm Plant Shock

• Storms are traumatic for us as well as our plants. Plan to have plenty of fungicide and bactericide to treat orchids after the storm has passed. Orchids may receive too much water during a storm (indoors or outdoors) and may not dry out as quickly as they should. Watch your plants very closely for the telltale signs of an infection.

We hope these simple steps will help you protect your plants and your investment before a storm. 

Saltwater Exposure
If your orchids were exposed to saltwater associated with storm surge, it’s really important to flush your pots with fresh water. Saltwater can be very damaging to orchids. Salt, in a concentrated form, is a type of herbicide. The sooner you can clear the saltwater from your plants, the better your chances of saving  them.

Too Much / Too Little Water
If your area received a lot of rain, check your outdoor pots to look to see if they are draining properly to avoid root rot. Drain holes may be clogged with debris and plant saucers may need to be drained. These efforts will also help to reduce breeding grounds for mosquitoes. 

If you relocated your orchids indoors before the storm, don't forget to keep them hydrated. The air in your home is less humid than outdoors. Try misting them often until you can move your plants outdoors again. 

Stress
Hurricane stress isn’t just for humans, orchids can experience it, too. Watch for signs of fungus and bacteria. When a plant is weakened from changes in the environment, they are more susceptible. Treat at the first sign of fungus or bacteria and keep your sick orchids isolated from your healthy ones.

What potting mix is best for growing orchids? Bark, moss, lava rock? Well, the answer depends on the type of orchids you are growing, the location of your orchids, and how you care for them. 

For example, if you're in an area with a very dry climate, you should select a mix that retains moisture. If you grow your orchids indoors and tend to over water your plants, you will want potting mix that drains well. So how do you know which mix retains moisture and which ones do not? 
 
First, let’s look at the ingredients found in orchid potting mixes and their specific traits:

• Fir Bark: Maximizes Air Flow
• Charcoal: Cleans Naturally
• Coarse Perlite: Drains Quickly
• Chunky Peat: Retains Moisture
• Lava Rock: Aerates Roots
• Sphagnum Moss: Holds Moisture

Of course, we don't expect you to find these individual ingredients and make your own orchid mix. Thankfully, our head grower applied his many years of research and experience to develop our line of Better-Gro Orchid Potting Mixes. The following products are the exact same mixes that we use in our greenhouses to grow thousands of plants each year. 

Summer is a time when fungal infections can quickly spread through your orchids. Fungi thrive in warm, humid conditions which coincidentally are the same conditions that most orchids need to survive. So, whether you are a greenhouse grower or your orchids are grown outside, you need to be vigilant about watching for the first signs of an infection. If left untreated, a fungus can kill your plants. But don’t worry, follow these instructions below to help detect, treat and prevent to bring your plants back to good health.

Let’s talk about the most common types of fungi that may impact your orchids: ​

If you keep your orchids outdoors during the summer to take advantage of the rainy season and warm weather, be careful that your plants aren’t receiving too much of a good thing. Orchids are natural epiphytes that derive water and nutrients from tree canopies. Their native settings allow plants to soak up just the right amount of rain, shed unnecessary water and allow roots to dry out between rain showers. 
​
Despite our attempts to mimic an orchid’s natural setting, an outdoor potted orchid needs extra care and attention to avoid receiving too much water.

Orchid Varieties
All orchids are not the same. Some varieties prefer to dry out completely between waterings such as vandas and phalenopsis (moth orchids). Other orchids such as paphiopedliums (lady slippers), miltonias (pansy orchids) and cymbidiums like to stay evenly moist but not soggy. Orchids that like something in the middle - evenly moist during high growth periods but dry outs between waterings - include cattleyas, dendrobiums and oncidiums.

What Is the Harm in Too Much Water?
There is such as thing as “too much of a good thing” as it relates to rainwater and your outdoor orchids. Without proper drainage, too much water can literally kill your plant.  Overwatering can deprive your orchid roots of oxygen. In a short period of time, your healthy green or brown roots will turn black and begin to rot. This wet environment is ideal environment for bacteria or fungus. If you aren’t careful, the damage caused to your roots will eventually show in the leaves of your plants. By then, unfortunately, it may be too late to save the plant.  So take the time this summer to routinely check your outdoor orchids to be sure they aren’t getting too much of a good thing with these summer rains.

No, we aren’t keiki-ing or kidding! Nature really can provide two for the price of one. A keiki is an offshoot that forms on a mother plant. The word keiki is derived from the Hawaiian word for baby. So if you are lucky, from time to time, your orchid plants may produce a baby that can grow into a full-sized, flowering orchid. A keiki is just one way that orchids propagate and most commonly occur with dendrobiums, phalaenopsis and epidendrums. This particular type of propagation produces a new plant that will have the same characteristics as the parent plant. So flower color, size and fragrance will be identical. ​

​Where Do Keikis Grow?
Dendrobium and epidendrum keikis typically develop along the cane. You will notice roots sprouting from the side or tip of the cane, and a new independent cane will form from these roots. On a phalaenopsis, keikis sprout from nodes along a healthy, green flower spike. 

What Do You Do with Keikis?
If you want to replicate the mother plant, allow the keiki to grow until the new plant develops a healthy root system and produces a new cane or multiple leaves. Be patient though, this growth process will take between six months to a year. If you prematurely remove the keiki, it will die.

Removing a Keiki
Simply use a sterilized cutting tool to remove the keiki taking care not to damage the new roots or the mother plant. Spray or swab the cut location with fungicide to protect the keiki and the mother plant from developing a fungus. If you don’t have fungicide readily available, sprinkle cinnamon from your spice cabinet on the wound. Cinnamon is a natural fungicide. 

For step-by-step instructions, refer to this American Orchid Society: Removing a Keiki Video.

​Caring for Your Keiki
Plant the baby orchid in fresh potting medium. Stabilize the young plant with a stake and clip. Mist as needed and over time, your plant will grow into an adult-sized orchid. 

For tips on potting your baby orchid, view this American Orchid Society: Potting a Keiki Video.

Happy Blooming with Better-Gro!

​So you’ve had good luck with Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis), and you’ve added color to your collection with a few showy Cattleyas. Now you may be looking to expand your collection but are worried that other varieties may be too difficult to grow. After all, most stores primarily sell Dendrobiums, Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas, so they must be the only easy orchids to grow, right? Wrong.

The orchid family includes nearly 900 genera, and among those hundreds, there are lots of plants that are quite simple to grow under the same conditions as the most commonly available orchids. Let’s take a look at some additional varieties to add to your collection.

Brassavola Nodosa 
Commonly Known as "Lady of the Night"
Not only is the white flower on this orchid quite unique, this hardy plant features a distinctive gardenia-like fragrance that peaks at night fall. Another reason we like this orchid is that when grown under the right conditions, Brassavola nodosa will bloom multiple times throughout the year. 

Temperature: Grows best in warmer temperatures ranging from 70º to 85º F and likes a slight drop in evening temps.

Light: Prefers medium to high filtered light, similar to a Cattleya.

Watering: Likes a well-drained potting media, such as Better-Gro ® Special Orchid Mix, or even a cork/driftwood mount so that the roots can air out between waterings. The Brassavola prefers a humid environment, so if you happen to live in a temperate zone, this plant will thrive outdoors.

Feeding: Because this orchid will bloom throughout the year, it is recommended that you feed by alternating between our Better-Gro ® Orchid Plus ® and Better-Gro ® Better-Bloom ® plant foods using the recommendations on the label.

​Oncidium 'Sweet Sugar'
This orchid has been nicknamed the "Dancing Lady" due to its striking resemblance to a full-skirted silhouette that closely mimics a dancing lady when the flowers flutter in a gentle breeze. Some even say the flowers look like angels.

Although the blossoms are typically just 1" or less in size, don’t be fooled by the tiny size of this plant’s flora. The sprays on this plant easily rival other larger-sized orchid blooms.

Temperature: Thrives in day time temperatures ranging from 70º to 85º F.

Light: Grows best with bright filtered light.

Watering: Oncidiums are equipped to store water in their pseudobulbs which makes them more draught tolerant. Be sure to use a well-drained potting media, such as Better-Gro ® Special Orchid Mix, to allow the plant to dry between waterings and watch for the tell-tale sign that your orchid needs water when you see the pseudobulb start to shrivel.

Feeding: We recommend the same plant food routine as listed above for both Oncidiums and Brassavola. Alternate between our Better-Gro ® Orchid Plus ®and Better-Gro ® Better-Bloom ® plant foods using the amounts shown on the label. 

In addition to this bright yellow color, Oncidiums are available in a variety of colors including red, pink, green, white and brown. Some varieties even have a scent including the 'Sharry Baby' variety that smells like chocolate.

Paphiopedilum Maudiae
Makuli-Curtisii-Maudiae x Paph. Maudiae 'Napa Valley' HCC/AOS x Sib
Don’t be fooled by this exotic looking orchid. Paphiopedilum maudiaes are one of the easiest orchid varieties to grow. Commonly referred to as the "Lady Slipper Orchid" because of the pouch-like lip that resembles the toe of a slipper, flowers on this plant will last up to two months and often bloom one to two times a year. The mottled foliage of the Paphiopedilum maudiae is prettier than most orchid varieties and rivals many indoor houseplants. 

Temperature: This orchid prefers cooler temperatures than the orchids listed above. The Paphiopedilum maudiae grows best between 65º to 85º F and needs cooler night temperatures to form buds.

Light: In a natural setting, this orchid grows on the forest floor. In a greenhouse or outdoor environment, provide filtered light and avoid direct sunlight.

Watering: Although the lip of this orchid looks like the ideal vessel to hold water, you should avoid getting water in the pouch as this will cause the flower to rot. Paphiopedilums don't have pseudobulbs like other orchid varieties, so it is important to water regularly. Potting media should remain cool to the touch, but water should flow completely through the pot to avoid root rot.

Feeding: Paphiopedilums do not need as much plant food as other orchid varieties. We recommend cutting the strength of your plant food to a quarter or half strength of what is shown on the label.

In addition to the white and light green flower shown above, the Paphiopedilum maudiae is also available in a deep eggplant purple.

We hope you enjoy experimenting with these additional orchid varieties. They are sure to bring fresh blooms, interesting foliage and diversity to your collection.
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Happy Blooming from Better-Gro!

Improper Light Levels
The right amount of light is essential for maintaining plant growth and encouraging re-flowering of your orchid.
 
High light levels lead to leaves that are yellowish in color and in some cases can cause scorching of the leaves. This scorching first appears as white patches on uppermost leaves, which eventually turn brown. Extreme cases of scorching can kill the plant! Yellowish leaves caused by high light levels are easily remedied by moving the plant to a slightly shadier spot.
 
Low light levels typically won’t kill your plant, but it is the most common reason people fail to re-bloom their orchids. In this scenario, plant leaves are typically dark green and the plant fails to re-flower during its normal blooming season. The ideal leaf color should be an even, medium-green. Slowly increase the light level over a couple months by introducing the plant to slightly brighter conditions, until the desired leaf color is recognized. In Phalaenopsis, low light levels can also lead to soft, floppy elongated leaves.
 
Most orchid problems are preventable.

• Keep your growing area clean
• Water only as necessary and as early in the day as possible
• Feed at recommended rates
• Space your plants well
• Make sure they have adequate air circulation

 
There really is no magic to growing orchids successfully; just some preparation and care is all you need.
 
For more information about proper air movement and light levels, watch our video below. 

Happy Blooming!

Overwatering and Underwatering
Not too much and not too little - but just the right amount of water will make your orchids very happy. But how do you know how much is just right?
 
Over-watering is the most common problem associated with poorly performing orchids. Symptoms can look very similar to those of under-watered plants because it often rots the roots and therefore prevents them from taking up adequate amounts of water.
 
The first thing to do is to examine the roots of the plant. If the roots are rotted (soft, black and soggy) then chances are the plant is being over-watered. If the potting media is fresh and the pot size is not too large, then you will need to cut back on the frequency of your watering. Also, because the rot is often associated with a bacteria or fungus, you may need to drench the plant or pot with a good fungicide or bactericide.
 
Under-watered plants often exhibit limp or withered leaves and withered stems or bulbs. This happens because the plant is not getting enough water to keep the leaves, bulbs, or stems turgid.
 
If the pot is not too small for the plant and the roots are in good health (white and firm), then this is easily remedied by watering the plant more frequently. Remember that Cattleyas and Dendrobiums like to dry between waterings. Once the potting media dries out, you should water the orchid promptly. Do not let the orchid stay dry for a prolonged period.
 
Also, realize that larger pots tend to stay wet longer than smaller pots. One trick to learn is to lift the pot up when it is ready to be watered and note the weight of the pot. Now, water your plant thoroughly and let it drain for 5 minutes, then lift the pot up and again note the weight. The difference in pot weight is noticeable and, over time, this can be a quick and easy way to tell when your plant requires watering.